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Meher Castelino

Designer: Rocky S

At first, it was Bhanu Athaiya and her Oscar for Best Costume Designer for the Richard Attenborough opus, Gandhi. But the international attention was momentary -- and India was once again relegated to the status of creative artisan.

Which has, for many years, been her standing on the international fashion scene. Acclaimed designers like Valentino, Ungaro, Escada, Ralph Lauren and Ferre have used master Indian craftsmen to lend shape and dazzle to their designs.

Designer: Pawan Aswani

And then, India was the flavour of the month once again, thanks to a glamorous cricket icon and his beautiful young bride. Though the spectacular bridal outfit was not eventually worn on the occasion, the international spotlight focussed on Tarun Tahiliani -- the Indian designer initially chosen to create Jemima Goldsmith's bridal outfit for her Islamic wedding with Imran Khan.

Spring/Summer '97 will see a continuation of that nascent trend,

Designers: Salim Asgarali

with Indian designer labels gracing the racks of Europe. Eight Indian designers, who presented their Spring/Summer '97 lines at the Idego fashion fair in Dusseldorf, Germany, last September have already shipped their orders to Europe, Australia and Japan under their own exclusive labels.

Designers like Hemant Trevedi, Manju and Bobby Grover and Salim Asgarali were even mentioned in the prestigious Collection Donna, Italy's fashion Bible that features fashion heavyweights like Yves St Laurent, Ferre, Versace, Galleon and Christian Doir.

Designer: Hemant Trevedi

After fighting shy of mainline fashion for years, Trevedi launched his immensely popular label -- Vedic Mode Designs. His latest collection, titled the Healing Colours of Ayurveda, dazzled not only the European elite but even the Indian audience when it was shown last year. Silk, crepe and chiffon in greys, browns and blacks, printed with delicate Indian motifs and dazzling bead work were turned into tunics, jackets, minis, lungis, trousers and skirts. A perfect blend of the east and west that had buyers rushing to him from Spain, Morocco and Australia.

Designer: Ritu Beri

The capital's darling felt a line of burgundy, brown, black and beige was perfect for the coming fashion season. Embellished with her characteristic embroidery, her skirts, brief blouses and flowing overcoats in silks and chiffon retained the ethnic look. But it was Beri's hand-painted floral organza blouses and saris that prompted German buyers to place large orders.

Designers: Bobby and Manju Grover

The Grover look was reminiscent of the wild west. Printed wrap around dresses, trousers and blouses made casual fashion statements. The Grovers moved away from their sari/blouse sets and elaborate ethnic wear and opted for a simple '97 look.

Sexy, skimpy, summer wear, with Kutchi mirror work and embroidered or printed Indian motifs, from the Rocky S studios gave white jersey a new image. It was a brief story, with body suits, shorts and micro minis highlighting the body conscious look of the season.

Minis and minis and gowns in white jersey and black lurex dominated Asgarali's evening wear. While his checked cotton line comprising of shorts, trousers and tiny tops created a casually naughty image.

Designer: Sangeeta Desai

The zipper, the line's only embellishment, was used in a very innovative manner. It was this dual look that got Asgarali orders from European buyers.

Desai's Zodiac collection, which concentrated on beachwear in chiffon, was brief enough to arouse immense interest amongst the German press. The foreign press, familiar with the traditional sari and salwar kameez ensemble, was pleasantly surprised by Desai's Spring/Summer Line. Her collection exposed the west to a daring new Indian image.

Designer: Bhairavi Jaikishen

The collection, titled Earth, was a medley of chutney, ochre, orange and brown cotton, with hand painted symbols that made a dramatic fashion statement. Lungis, tunics, kurtas, skirts, blouses and slim trousers were daringly accessorised in jute.

Her ivory and cream roughed cotton line was featured in the Best Seller Show as well as the Professional Magazine at the Igedo Fair. Orders from Japan will see the Jaikishan line in Japanese stores as brief minis, bustiers, skirts and sheer jackets.

Page design: Dominic Xavier